Tuesday, November 10, 2009
TIP DARI CMA COLLECTION'S
Fabrik satin mempunyai dua permukaan yang berlainan iaitu rata dan berkilat pada sebelah manakala pudar pada bahagian dalamnya. Ia boleh di dapati dalam pelbagai serat benang daripada terlalu nipis dan bermutu rendah hingga kain satin tebal ( dulchess )( Needlework for school – Mehtam – neal ).
KADAR KECUTAN KAIN
Jenis Kain
Kain satin
½”
Kain cotton ‘343’
½ -1”
Kain sifon
1-3”
Kain belacu
1.2”
Kain cotton linen
½ - 1”
Fabrik sutera bersumberkan gentian yang di eksport khas daripada Negara china.Pelbagai jenis sutera, menunjuk pada benang asli yang didapati daripada ulat sutera.
Ciri-ciri sutera
Benang sutera mepunyai kilat asli kerana tidak ada pintalan dalam keadaan asalnya. Oleh itu gentian penghasilkan fabrik cantik serta rata dan bercahaya.
Sutera hangat apabila di pakai bukan kerana penebat haba yang elok, lagipun ia mudah menyerap lembapan ,ia tidak mudah terbakar dan tidak mudah bertahi lalat dan tidak mudah dimakan gegat.
Bagi fabrik sifon (chiffon) pula, fabrik buatanya agak nipis, lembut dan halus yang boleh di gantung dan dikedutkan dengan baik.penggunaan kainnya sesuai degan reka bentuk baju yang berkedut - kedut.
Fabrik kapas ( voile, linen, belacu dan kordoroi). Asal usul pembuatan kapas bersumberkan gentian kapas dari china, rusia, India dan Amerika Syarikat. Pemintalan yang ada pada gentian ber makna bahawa ia tidak mudah membalikkan cahaya dan kebanyakkan fabrik kapas yang tidak diberi kekemasan seperti belacu tidak berkilau. Fabrik belacu amat teguh dan senang di kendalikan. Warnanya putih tanpa bercorak.
Kebaikan menggunakan fabrik ini ia bersesuaian, kukuh dan tahan lasak, Gentian kapas lebih teguh apabila basah daripada ia kering. Oleh itu fabrik kapas boleh direbus dan di perah. Ia juga mudah menyerap lembapan, oleh itu ia sesuai untuk pakaian. Ia juga membiarkan udara lalu dengan bebas melalui jalinannya menyebabkan fabrik sejuk di pakai.Ia tahan lasak.
Kelemahannya pula gentian kapas mempunyai sedikit kuasa pegas dan oleh itu fabrik kapas mudah renyuk kecuali jika di beri kemasan tak renyuk. Fabrik ini mutu renah keras untuk di kendalikan. Jika di simpan sewaktu lembap ia mudah bertahi lalat. Gentian ini mudah menyala dan terbakar dengan bau seperti kertas hangus. ( Rujukan Needlework For School – Melita M.Neal)
Fabrik linen selalu digunakan untuk kanvas angkatan laut kerana ia teguh apabila basah dan juga untuk alas meja dan kain pengesat gelas, fabrik untuk sulaman halus dan fabrik untuk pakaian. Fabrik linen untuk pakaian adalah mahal tetapi ia sesuai untuk aktiviti lasak, ia sentiasa teguh dan menarik.Selalunya ia di tenun biasa tetapi yarn slub boleh di gunakan untuk memberi kesan berdaging. Fabrik ini mempunyai kilauan asal keras sedikit, dimana kaedah perusahaannya ( rujukan Needlework For School – Melita M.Neal ).
Warna mewujudkan ilusi optik kesemuanya pada mata dan penglihatan kita semua. Pengkaji inginkan warna yang mempunyai kecerahan dan kelebaman kerana ia menimbulkan suasana yang berbeza, di panggil intersity. Warna juga mempunyai muslihat, dan memainkan peranan kepada sesiapa yang melihatnya.
Faktor yang perlu di pertimbangkan semasa memilih fabrik ialah pemilihan warna. Jika tersalah dipilih mengikut tema dan konsep, boleh menimbulkan pelbagai masalah. Di dalam prinsip design, pengkaji menemui maklumat mengenai panduan asas untuk pemilihan warna yang betul dengan tema dan konsep reka bentuk yang dipilih.
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
selamat datang ke cmacollections
kami menjual pakaian ready made lelaki (formal dan kasual) dan wanita (formal dan kasual).ianya cantik dan bersesuaian dengan anda semua......
kami juga menjual aksesori wanita
jangan lepaskan peluang untuk tempahan
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Techniques and interacting
Materials and Tools:
-paper pattern
-soda ash fixative
-#6B pencil
-staple gun and staples
-4, 9" x 12" stretcher bars or an old picture
-100 percent cotton sheeting, organdy, muslin or similar lightweight woven cotton fabric
-beeswax/paraffin mix
-small crock-pot for melting wax (do not use for cooking)
-old bristle brushes for waxing
-small and medium Tjanting wax tools
-cold-water dye in various colors
-white plastic watercolor palette
-watercolor brushes in various sizes
-18" x 24" newspapers and clear newsprint
-fiberfill
-beading thread
-beading needle
-embroidery needle
-size 11 seed beads in various colors for tassels
-size 6 or 8 seed beads for border
-4 large focal beads
-various accent beads and charms
-organza ribbon
-organza wedding favor bag pouch
-potpourri
Batik Steps:
1) Choose an image with clear contour lines like a stained glass pattern or flash/tattoo art. Make sure there are no areas smaller than a raisin as the areas will be too small to wax. Copy or draw the image on white paper to the exact size of the 9" x 12" pillow (figure A).
2) Transfer the design to the cotton fabric by taping the drawing to a sunny window or a light box. Tape the fabric over the drawing and trace lightly with a pencil (figure B).
3) Stretch the fabric over the assembled stretcher bars or picture frame. Staple in place (figure C).
4) Cover the work surface with newspaper. Melt the wax in a crock-pot set on low. One pound of wax will take approximately two hours to melt.
5) Place the stretched fabric on the newspaper close to the wax pot. Holding the tjanting in one hand, dip into the melted wax. Initially the tjanting must be in the wax for 30 seconds to melt any solidified wax and to heat up the well. Hold the tjanting tilted up to prevent drips. Hold it over a paper towel in the other hand if drips are a problem. Place the tjanting’s tip on a drawn contour line and without hesitating, draw the line until the well runs dry or the wax comes out translucent instead of transparent. The wax is then to cool to penetrate the fibers. Return the tjanting to the pot and refill the well. Repeat the process until all the contour lines are waxed (figure D).
Note: Make sure the wax is penetrating the fiber. The cloth will look darker and the wax will come through the other side. If it is not penetrating, the dye will bleed through the contour line into other sections. Remove wax that has not penetrated and re-wax those areas. Remove by picking off with your fingernail or draw another line of wax along side the line that did not penetrate.
6) Mix dye according to manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure to add the required fixative.
7) Fill the wells of a watercolor palette with the dyes to be used in the design. Fill in the spaces with desired colors with a watercolor brush. Work from the interior of the space out to the edges. As a result if a wax contour is not fully sealed the dye will bleed through slowly instead of soaking completely into the next space. If you discover a problem, stop that section and continue with another. Once the fabric dries use more wax to seal the leak (figure E).
8) Once you have filled in all areas let the dye dry completely.
9) Apply more wax to areas that you want to remain the current color (figure G). Apply more dye to deepen or change the color in the unwaxed areas.
10) Repeat step 8 and 9 until the desired color and detail have been achieved.
Note:
- Colors dry lighter than they appear when wet.
- Multiple coats of dye will produce more vibrant or darker colors.
- Colors can be mixed on the fabric for interesting effects. Test on scrap fabric for color and technique. Wet on wet will fully blend; wet onto dry will blend less and will leave a water line or stain at the intersection.
11) Cover the entire surface with a coat of wax using a bristle brush. This will ensure that the fabric is a consistent texture. Remove the fabric from the stretchers.
12) Cover the ironing board with several sheets of newspaper then at least two pieces of unprinted newsprint paper. Sandwich the waxed fabric under another sheet of newsprint.
13) Using an old iron set on "cotton" iron over the fabric and paper. Change the paper above and below the fabric as it becomes saturated with wax (figure I). Repeat until no more wax melts onto the paper.
14) Crop the work to the desired dimensions plus a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Pillow Steps: (Additional instructions for the web)
1) Cut fabric into two pieces.
- Cut piece #1 9-1/2" x 8-1/2"
- Cut piece #2 9-1/2" x 6-1/2"
2) Using a sewing machine and matching thread, finish one 9-1/2 inch raw edge on each of the two backing pieces.
3) Place the batik face up on a table. Place the two backing pieces, face down, over the batik. Line up all edges to create a two-inch overlap in the center of the pillow.
4) Pin together and sew all four sides.
5) Turn right sides out. Stuff with fiberfill making sure to force stuffing into all four corners.
6) Tie a knot at one end of a 12-inch piece of organza ribbon. Using an embroidery needle, thread the ribbon through the backing fabric 3 inches down from the top of the pillow to the left of the opening in the back. Repeat to the left and 3 inches up from the bottom of the pillow. Add beads to the ribbons and tie knots on the ends to secure the beads.
7) String additional beads or charms onto another ribbon. At the midpoint of this ribbon, sew to the organza favor bag. Tie a decorative bow.
8) Fill the organza favor bag with a small amount of potpourri. Place the bag inside the pillow. Tie the ribbons together to close the back of the pillow.
Beading Tassels Steps:
1) String one yard of beading thread onto a beading needle. Tie a knot at the end, leaving a tail of about three inches.
2) Pull the needle through the pillow fabric at one corner. String on the focal bead then the desired number of seed beads (approximately15 to 25). String on an accent bead or charm.
3) Weave the needle back through all the seed beads and the focal bead.
4) Bring the needle back through the corner of the pillow and pull tight to anchor the strand of beads (figure K). Hint: Hold the accent bead while pulling the thread.
5) Repeat steps 2 through 5 completing the desired number of strands.
6) Tie a finishing knot then bring the needle and thread halfway through one strand of beads. Bring the needle out of the strand and cut the thread.
7) Thread the original tail through the needle. Thread this through another strand of beads in the tassel and cut off to hide all the loose ends of the thread for a finished look.
Beaded Embroidery Steps:
1) Choose beads to accent specific areas of the batik design. Thread a one-yard length of beading thread through a beading needle. Tie a knot at the end.
2) Single beads can be attached using the single stitch:
A) Insert the needle into the pillow at the side seam closest to where you want the beads.
B) Make sure the knot is locked inside the pillow.
C) Bring the needle up where you want the first bead.
D) String on the bead.
E) Inset the needle back into the pillow then to the next bead location.
F) Repeat this step until all single beads are attached.
G) Tie a finishing knot near the last bead then, bring the needle back to the side seam and out.
4) Larger beads can be couched or surrounded by a circle of seed beads. Sew on a large bead using a single stitch. Bring the needle up near the large bead, string on enough seed beads to surround the large bead. Bring the needle back into the pillow next to the first stitch. Come up on the opposite side of the large bead. Pull tight to close the circle. Bring the needle through one seed bead and back into the fabric to the next location.
5) Attach a border of seed beads around the perimeter to hide the seams. The border is attached using a backstitch. Thread a long length of beading thread or wire onto a beading needle and knot.
6) Go through the pillow at one seam near a tassel. String on six seed beads. Go into the fabric directly at the end of the line of six beads. Direct the needle back toward the line of beads. Come up between beads 3 and 4. Put the needle through the beads 4, 5,and 6. String on six more beads and repeat until you reach the corner.
7) Tie a finishing knot and bring the tail back into the line of beads. Cut excess thread
(figure M).
8) Repeat for all four sides.........u all can try...............gud luck..............